Dolomites, Italy

A first night in Manguelfo. Arriving at the Manguelfo train station, we will be awed by the soaring Alps to the north and south, but the serene slopes hardly hint at the drama that awaits us.

Our home for this first night is in the quiet village of Manguelfo, set against the low slopes on the north side of the valley. All seems serene enough, even though we know that somewhere over the rise to the south lie the jagged spires of the Dolomites. Tomorrow we’ll dive headlong into a landscape that will stop us in our tracks—more times than we can count. Tomorrow, one of the greatest adventures of our lives begins in earnest.

Two nights in Cortina d’Ampezzo. The beating heart of the Dolomites is Cortina d’Ampezzo, home to the 1956 Winter Olympics. Few relics of those games remain visible, and Cortina has become so much more than the village that once housed the world’s greatest athletes. But the reason the games where held here has not changed at all: The natural wonders that surround this valley form a year-round playground unsurpassed anywhere.

In summer, cyclists and hikers—world class and mere mortals—gather to hike, bike, and be awed, with Cortina more often than not serving as their home for adventures. Situated in a valley between towering spires, Cortina is the perfect base for those who long to go vertical, and others who prefer to meander along the valley floor. On our first day, we’ll ride a magical bike path west into the forest to find a canyon of waterfalls and bottomless gorges. On our second day, we follow an old rail grade, circling around one set of peaks and squeezing between others. For two glorious nights and days, we’ll join our fellow travelers and learn why Cortina d’Ampezzo remains the heart and soul of the Dolomites.

Two nights in Misurina (near Tre Cime). As we will have learned from our first few days here, there is no shortage of spectacular peaks and ridges spread all across the Dolomites. But, like any place even so amazing as this, there is one location that stands as its visual icon. In the Dolomites, that place is Tre Cime.

Tre Cime is a trio of spires that are both spectacularly beautiful and unusually accessible, both of which contribute to its iconic stature. A paved road extends from our lakeside hotel in the valley to a refugio nestled at the base of Tre Cime and its many spire-friends. On this day, we’ll take a break from cycling and put on our hiking shoes to explore a place reserved for the gods. We’ll explore as much as we want (trails extend through the area like spiderwebs) and stay as long as we want, with the option of heading back to our hotel for a short ride or swim. This day is about grandeur and options—not a bad combination under any circumstances.

Final night in Strassen. We started our trip in the valley that defines the northern limits of the Dolomites and we’ll finish our trip in this same valley, this time just across border with Austria. We choose this location because in the tiny hamlet of Strassen lies one of the most beautiful inns anywhere. Housed in a grand manor that has stood for hundreds of years, the serene rooms, Zen garden, sauna, and celebrated restaurant offer a place to decompress like no other. For the past several days, we’ll have been treated to one marvel after another, almost to the point of overwhelm. So, before we leave this magical place, we’ll relish a few moments of calm in a place that encourages self-reflection. Strangely enough, over time we’ll come to appreciate this opportunity as much as any of the peaks and valleys we will have explored over the past few days. It’s all a part of the overall story—one which we’ll never forget.